Since this was the first year of the new “bio-metric” process, it took extra time to take photos and fingerprints. That was understandable. The one handed, one finger approach to typing by the person in charge, did drag things out considerably. Once we had filled out all the forms, it took about 30 minutes per applicant to do the data entry and photographs. We had arrived at 9:30 and were finished by 1:30, most of the time standing up in a small waiting area with 15-20 other Mozambican.
Now you might think that since everything was in the computer, the process would be speedy from then on. Well, it will take at least another 15 days to get our Dire’s back. In the meantime, we have two trips planned. The option of traveling without Dire’s is somewhat formidable since you have to buy a new visa upon re-entering the country or have an authorized letter. Last time they almost did not let Rachel out, because she did not have either. In the meantime, visa prices are now $66, up from $25. The government likes visitors for obvious reasons, but sad to say it seems like fewer are coming due to the price increases.
Since we knew we were traveling, we asked up front if we could get two letters, one for each trip. No problem, but you have to wait to start that process until after you have your receipts for the Dire. OK, no problem. So at 1:30 we made copies of the receipts and started the process for the travel letters. Now it was. “Oh, you want two letters at the same time? No, that is not our way of doing things. “ So we appeal to the next level. Sure, you can go ahead and fill out two forms each. We do and pay but the receipt says we can collect the next day. You have got to be kidding. When we appeal, it was a resigned, “OK, just wait here.” By now we are getting hungry and tired of standing, but the few chairs were all full. Finally, we got to sit down.
After an hour, I stick my head in the office of the person who said we could fill out two forms each. “Ah, just be patient, 15 minutes, it will be coming.” Well, we know 15 minutes is never 15, but we surrender and wait. Finally, we are some of the few left in the waiting area as closing time has come and gone. The person who promised us 2 letters each and 15 minutes appears with only two letters and the word that he would be hung to death should he attempt to issue two letters per person in one day. “ Come back tomorrow.” We take our papers and leave. Someone else will have to spend a half day coming back tomorrow for the forms that are already finished.
Upon review of the letters, they are pre-printed forms with about a half dozen words hand written into blanks to identify us, the date and place of issue. And that took two hours with three of us sitting there. A total of 6 person hours lost forever. The only conclusion we can come to is that he was waiting for money under the table. We did not pay any cash, but it cost us anyway.
By 4 PM we are on the road again, hurtling back toward Maputo knowing we will never make it before dark. The traffic is not too bad, but we come across vehicles with no tail lights and no reflectors, some of them moving slowly. At one point, we round a curve and face cars coming at us two wide, on a hill, that forces us off the road, onto the berm. But by the grace of God, we did not get hit head on. By the time we got home at 7:30, I was exhausted from the travel alone. In times like these, we repeat the words of the national anthem with tongue in cheek, “Moçambique nossa terra gloriosa (our glorious country)!”
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